April 18, 2026

How to Prepare Your RV for Long-Term Storage (6+ Months)

Storing an RV for a week between camping trips is nothing. Storing it for six months to a year is a completely different challenge. The mechanical systems, surfaces, seals, and internal components that hold up fine during short storage periods will degrade, corrode, or fail outright if left unattended for a full season.

This guide covers everything you need to do to prepare your RV for long-term storage — from your first walkthrough before drop-off to mid-storage check-ins to spring startup procedures. Follow these steps and your RV should come out of storage in the same condition it went in.

What Counts as “Long-Term” Storage?

For purposes of this guide, long-term storage means 90 days or more — essentially anything longer than a seasonal pause. Many of the steps below apply to any storage period, but become critical when your RV will sit untouched for multiple months.

The risks that compound over long storage periods include battery discharge and sulfation, tire flat-spotting, fuel degradation, pest infiltration, seal shrinkage and cracking, mold growth from residual moisture, and engine or generator issues from extended non-use.

Step 1: Choose the Right Storage Type

Before anything else, think carefully about where your RV will be stored. For long-term storage — especially over a winter or an extended relocation — the type of facility matters more than it does for a short stay.

Enclosed indoor storage is the gold standard for long-term storage. Your RV is completely protected from weather, UV, temperature swings, and pests. It costs more — typically $150 to $500 per month depending on your region and RV size — but the protection it provides is unmatched.

Covered outdoor storage (a roof but open sides) is a solid middle option. It blocks UV and precipitation while being significantly cheaper than enclosed. For long-term storage in mild climates, covered outdoor is often the best value.

Open outdoor storage is the least expensive but requires the most preparation work on your part — quality covers, tire protection, and more frequent check-ins.

Search for RV storage near you and filter by storage type to find options that match your budget and protection needs.

Step 2: Deep Clean the Entire RV

Long-term storage amplifies anything you leave behind. A smear of food becomes a mold bloom. A forgotten cracker becomes a pest buffet. Clean your RV more thoroughly than you would before a short storage period.

Interior Cleaning

• Remove and dispose of all food, including canned goods and spices
• Wipe down all cabinet interiors and drawer liners with an antibacterial cleaner
• Clean the refrigerator inside and out; leave both doors propped slightly open to prevent mold
• Vacuum all upholstery and mattresses; leave windows cracked slightly (or use vent covers) for air circulation
• Clean bathroom thoroughly; dry the shower stall and toilet area completely
• Remove any damp towels, mats, or fabrics that could harbor mold
• Place moisture-absorbing desiccant packs in cabinets, closets, and the bathroom

Exterior Cleaning

• Wash the entire exterior with an RV-safe soap — removing road grime, bird droppings, and tree sap before storage prevents etching over time
• Apply a coat of wax or UV-protective sealant to the sidewalls and roof
• Clean and condition all rubber seals around windows, doors, and slideouts
• Check and clean the awning fabric; retract completely before storage

Step 3: Winterize the Plumbing System

If your storage period includes any months where temperatures could drop to freezing — even occasionally — you must winterize the plumbing. A single freeze event can crack water lines, burst tanks, and destroy pump housings.

The two main winterization methods are compressed air blow-out and non-toxic RV antifreeze. Many owners use a combination of both. In brief:

1. Drain all fresh water from the tank, water heater (bypass it first), and all lines
2. Blow out lines with compressed air (40–50 PSI max) or pump RV antifreeze through every fixture
3. Pour a small amount of antifreeze down each drain to protect P-traps
4. Close the toilet valve and add antifreeze to the bowl if in a cold climate
5. Turn off and drain the water heater; set to bypass mode

For detailed steps, our separate RV winterization guide walks through both methods with step-by-step instructions.

Step 4: Protect the Batteries

Battery failure is the most common consequence of long-term storage. Batteries self-discharge over time, and once a lead-acid battery discharges below a certain threshold, it suffers permanent sulfation damage that reduces capacity — sometimes destroying the battery entirely.

Options for Long-Term Battery Care

Option 1: Remove the batteries and store them at home. Store in a cool, dry location and use a maintenance charger (trickle charger or smart charger) to keep them at full charge. Check monthly. This is the best option for very cold storage climates.

Option 2: Keep batteries in the RV with shore power. If your storage facility offers electrical hookups, you can leave the batteries installed and connected to shore power via a converter that maintains charge. This is the easiest option. Our guide to RV storage with electrical hookups covers why this option matters.

Option 3: Connect a solar trickle charger. A small solar panel (10–30 watts) left connected to your battery bank will maintain charge in outdoor or covered storage. This works well in sunny climates and doesn't require electrical hookups at the facility.

What not to do: Don't simply disconnect the batteries and leave them installed without any maintenance charging. Even disconnected batteries self-discharge over 6+ months, and a dead battery left all winter often won't recover.

Step 5: Treat the Fuel System

Gasoline degrades in as little as 30 days without ethanol and even faster with it. Diesel is more stable but still degrades over 6–12 months. For long-term storage, you have two options:

Add a fuel stabilizer to a full tank. A full tank minimizes condensation inside the tank. Run the engine or generator for 15–20 minutes after adding the stabilizer to ensure treated fuel reaches the entire fuel system — the injectors, carburetors (on older units), and lines.

Alternative for carbureted generators: Run the generator completely dry. This leaves no fuel to gum up the carburetor. Only recommended for generators, not for the main engine.

For the propane system, simply close the main valve at the tank. There's no need to empty propane tanks for storage — in fact, keeping them sealed and full is better than leaving them partially empty with air space.

Step 6: Protect the Tires

Tires sitting under a stationary load for months develop flat spots — permanent deformations that cause vibration when you drive again. In severe cases, the structural integrity of the tire is compromised.

• Inflate all tires to the maximum PSI listed on the sidewall (not the vehicle door sticker) before storage — pressure drops over time and overinflating slightly at the start compensates
• Place UV-blocking tire covers on all tires to prevent ozone cracking from sunlight
• Use tire cradles or flat boards under each tire to distribute the load and reduce flat-spotting
• If storing for more than 6 months, consider jacking up the RV on leveling blocks or stands to completely eliminate load on the tires — only do this on solid, level ground
• Check tire pressure monthly if you visit the facility for check-ins

Step 7: Seal Against Pests

Mice, squirrels, and insects view your vacant RV as prime real estate during a long storage period. A single mouse family can chew through wiring harnesses, nest in your air vents, and contaminate your entire interior over a winter.

• Stuff steel wool into all exterior openings — exhaust vents, furnace vents, fridge vents, any gap around pipes or wiring penetrations
• Use expanding foam to seal any gaps larger than 1/4 inch
• Place mouse bait stations or snap traps inside (remove all food first)
• Avoid mothballs — they're toxic and the smell is extremely difficult to remove from upholstery
• Peppermint-soaked cotton balls near entry points can deter rodents, though effectiveness varies
• Close fresh air intakes and vent openings that can't be physically sealed

Step 8: Protect the Exterior

If you're using covered or indoor storage, exterior protection is mostly about cleanliness and seal maintenance. If you're using open outdoor storage, a quality RV cover is essential.

When choosing an RV cover for long-term outdoor storage:

• Use a breathable, woven cover — not a cheap plastic tarp. Tarps trap moisture and cause more damage than no cover
• Size it correctly for your RV; a poorly fitting cover that flaps in the wind will abrade your paint and fiberglass
• Use underbelly covers or skirting if your RV will face extreme cold
• Inspect and tighten the cover after the first significant windstorm

Regardless of storage type, reseal any visible cracks or gaps in roof caulking, window seals, or slideout seals before storage. A compromised seal that allows water intrusion over 6 months can cause catastrophic interior damage.

Step 9: Exercise the Slideouts and Leveling System

Before committing to a long storage position, cycle your slideouts in and out twice and then choose your storage position. For most RVs, it's best to store with slides retracted to reduce seal stress — see our detailed guide on slideout storage position for the reasoning behind this.

Similarly, cycle your hydraulic or electric leveling jacks before storage and retract them fully. Apply a thin coat of protective lubricant to exposed jack surfaces to prevent corrosion during storage.

Mid-Storage Check-Ins

For storage periods over 3 months, plan to visit your RV at least once, ideally once a month. These check-in visits serve several purposes:

• Check tire pressure and reinflate as needed
• Start the engine and let it run for 10–15 minutes to circulate oil and keep seals lubricated
• Run the generator under load for 30 minutes (run the AC if possible) — generators that sit idle for months can develop carburetor issues
• Check for signs of moisture intrusion, pest activity, or cover damage
• Check battery state if not connected to shore power or solar
• Look for any leaks that may have developed since your initial inspection

The best storage facilities make these check-in visits easy with 24/7 gate access and well-maintained roads. Factor access hours into your facility selection.

Coming Out of Long-Term Storage

The startup process after long-term storage deserves as much attention as the storage prep. Don't just pull out of the facility and hit the highway.

1. Check tire pressure and inspect all tires for sidewall cracking or flat spots before driving
2. Reconnect and charge batteries (or reinstall if you removed them) and verify all 12V systems function
3. Flush the antifreeze from the plumbing system by running water through every fixture until clear
4. Test all propane appliances — furnace, stove, water heater, refrigerator — one at a time
5. Start the engine and let it warm up fully; check all fluid levels
6. Run the generator under load before relying on it on a trip
7. Test all lights, slides, and jacks before departure
8. Inspect the roof and all exterior seals for any damage that occurred during storage

Finding the Right Facility for Long-Term Storage

Not every facility is well-suited for long-term storage. When you're evaluating options, look for:

• 24/7 gate access so you can do check-in visits on your schedule
• Electrical hookups if battery maintenance is a concern
• Good drainage so your RV isn't sitting in standing water through a wet season
• Active security — cameras, lighting, controlled access — since your RV will be unattended for months at a time
• Reasonable mid-term access policies if you need to retrieve something from the RV

Search for RV storage facilities near you and compare amenities, security features, and pricing to find the right fit for a long-term commitment.