May 18, 2026

RV Roof Inspection and Care Before Storage

Water damage is the single most expensive failure mode in stored RVs — and most of it enters through the roof. A small crack in a vent seal or a gap in the edge flashing that seemed minor in summer can funnel weeks of rain into your walls and subfloor during storage. By the time you discover it, you may be looking at delaminated walls, rotted wood framing, and mold remediation costs that exceed your RV's value. A thorough roof inspection and proper sealing before storage takes a few hours and prevents all of it.

Know Your Roof Type First

The three most common RV roof materials each have specific cleaning and maintenance requirements. Using the wrong product can cause more damage than doing nothing:

• EPDM (rubber): The most common material on travel trailers and fifth wheels. Matte black or dark gray appearance. Requires rubber-specific cleaners and conditioners — petroleum-based products will degrade EPDM rapidly.
• TPO (thermoplastic polyolefin): Increasingly common on newer rigs, white or light gray. More UV-resistant than EPDM. Requires TPO-compatible cleaners and lap sealant.
• Fiberglass: Common on Class A motorhomes and higher-end RVs. Harder surface, easy to walk on, resistant to UV. Standard automotive or marine fiberglass cleaners work well.
• Aluminum: Found on older RVs. Durable but prone to oxidation and fastener corrosion. Seams sealed with butyl tape or aluminum tape that must be inspected carefully.

The Pre-Storage Roof Inspection

Work your way methodically across the roof surface and every penetration. Use a kneeling pad to distribute your weight and avoid stepping directly on vents or unsupported spans:

Edge Flashing and Drip Rail

The edge where the roof material meets the sidewall is the highest-risk area for water infiltration. Run your finger along the full perimeter of the roof edge — any gap in the sealant bead, any lifted flashing, or any area where the rubber pulls away from the sidewall top cap is a leak waiting to happen. These areas get flexed every time the RV travels and are the first seals to fail.

All Roof Penetrations

Every hole through the roof — vents, A/C unit base, TV antenna, MaxxFan, solar panel mounting feet, cable entry ports — is a potential leak point. Inspect the sealant ring around each one:

• Sealant should be fully adhered with no gaps, cracks, or bubbling
• Run your fingernail across any sealant bead — it should feel smooth and flexible, not brittle
• Lap sealant that has turned white or chalky is past its service life and should be removed and reapplied
• Screws around vent flanges should be snug — a loose flange can lift in wind and allow water under

The Roof Surface Itself

On EPDM and TPO roofs, look for:

• Any tears, punctures, or impact damage (tree branch hits, foot traffic damage)
• Bubbling or lifting areas where the rubber has separated from the substrate — these are water infiltration points already
• Excessive streaking or black mold growth on the roof surface — a sign of poor drainage and standing water

On fiberglass roofs, look for cracks especially around roof-mounted hardware and screws. Spider cracks are cosmetic; longer cracks that extend through the gel coat can allow moisture penetration.

Cleaning the Roof Before Storage

EPDM Rubber Roofs

Use a rubber roof cleaner specifically formulated for EPDM (products like Dicor Rubber Roof Cleaner, Camco Full Timer's Choice). Apply with a soft brush — do not use a stiff bristle brush or scrubbing pad that can abrade the surface. Rinse thoroughly. After cleaning, apply a rubber roof conditioner/protectant to slow UV oxidation. This step is often skipped but makes a measurable difference in rubber longevity.

TPO Roofs

TPO is more tolerant of cleaning products than EPDM. A mild detergent solution works well. Avoid solvent-based cleaners. Rinse completely. Some manufacturers recommend a UV protectant specifically for TPO — check your RV manufacturer's guidance.

Fiberglass Roofs

A marine fiberglass cleaner followed by a carnauba wax or fiberglass polish provides excellent UV protection and makes the surface easier to clean next season. Do not use harsh automotive cleaners that strip the gel coat.

Sealing Before Storage

After inspection and cleaning, address every questionable sealant area:

• Remove deteriorated lap sealant completely using a plastic scraper — do not leave old sealant under new
• Use a self-leveling lap sealant (Dicor, Geocel) for horizontal surfaces and penetrations — it flows into gaps automatically
• Use a non-sag sealant for vertical surfaces and edge flashings
• Allow 24–48 hours to cure before exposing to rain
• Seal any screw penetrations at vent flanges or hardware with additional dabs of lap sealant

A quality tube of lap sealant costs $8–$15. Replacing a delaminated wall section costs $2,000–$8,000. The math is obvious.

After Roof Care: The Rest of the Prep List

Roof inspection and sealing is one step in a complete storage prep process. For the full sequence before you hand the keys over to the facility, see our complete RV storage checklist. For moisture control inside the RV after sealing the outside, see our guide to RV mold prevention during storage.